Related Articles: Restaurants, All

Review: Neto’s 2.0

The popular sausage company moves to a new location but still serves the same Iberian treats

by Stett Holbrook on Jan 15, 2010
 Email  Print Share

NETO’S SAUSAGE Company’s twice-a-week barbecue held just outside the small market wasn’t exactly a secret, but it had the feel of a neighborhood gathering that attracted a select, sausage-loving crowd. Neto’s was tucked away off The Alameda in Santa Clara and was one of those places you would take visiting friends who appreciated good food in unpretentious surroundings like the edge of a parking lot with picnic tables for seating.

Neto’s had been making sausage in the same spot since 1948, when Arthur Gonçalvez founded the market and sausage outlet to cater to the area’s Portuguese community. But four months ago, Neto’s owners, Ed Costa (Gonçalvez’s grandson) and his wife, Debbie, decided to move their operation to a bigger space and offer their grilled sausage every day as well as a full menu of Italian and Portuguese food. They settled on a hulking space that used to be a UFW hall a few blocks away near Franklin Square. Thus Neto’s Sausage Company has become Neto’s Market & Grill.

A corner of the restaurant is given over to fresh sausage (made off-site) and cheese, as well as various Iberian grocery items. The rest of the space is dedicated to the restaurant and a small bar (!). You order at the counter and find a seat among the aluminum tables and chairs. Old black-and-white family photos line the walls, and near the bar is a cluster of TVs tuned to various games.

Because the space is so large, the Costas decided to add live entertainment. Tuesday is blues-jam night, an event that is taking off, judging by the packed house and dozens of musicians who showed up last week. Fridays feature karaoke backed by a live band; they plan to add live music and comedy on Saturdays.

As for the food, Neto’s menu of grilled sausage has expanded into full-service breakfast, lunch and dinner. They still serve the grilled links and sausage burgers of old and have added some Italian-American classics and a few lesser-known Portuguese dishes.

The sausage is as good as I remember it from when I last visited the old Neto’s five years ago. I love the spicy Calabrese sausage burger ($7.99), a hearty patty of spiced pork. My only complaint is that the bun needed a good toasting. I hate untoasted bread. New to me is the carne de vinho d’alhos ($9.99), garlicky, marinated grilled pork served on a French roll. It’s good but got lost in all that bread.

For a starter that could work just as well as a meal, go for the cheesy chorizo bread ($6.99), grilled ciabatta topped with oil and garlic loaded with marinara sauce, sliced Spanish chorizo and melted mozzarella. It looks like the world’s best toaster-oven creation. Skip the bruschetta ($6.99), French bread slices gone soggy with too much balsamic vinegar and mealy out-of-season tomatoes.

Back for dinner on another visit, I was drawn to the Portuguese specialties. San Jose and Santa Clara have sizeable Portuguese communities but few Portuguese restaurants. I’m guessing that the best cooking is done in people’s homes, and Neto’s food looks and tastes like home cooking, with big portions and hearty flavors that aim to please.

Best of the lot was the Portuguese febras ($14.99), thickly sliced pork loin simmered in a creamy but light garlic sauce and served with a fried egg on top, a heap of roasted potatoes and an afterthought of sautéed vegetables. While it’s not for everyone, I was glad to see the bacalhau de Gomes ($15.99) on the menu, a jumble of salt cod, potatoes and onions with a sliced hard-boiled egg on top. If you’re looking for Old World, this is it.

For something a little more New World, the chicken Parmesan ($11.99) offers a heaping helping of Italian-American food. The hulking chicken breast is lightly breaded and covered with red sauce and a thick layer of mozzarella, with pasta and vegetables on the side.

The large portions precluded me from trying many desserts, but I did squeeze in the Portuguese flan, a wonderfully dense and rich version of egg custard.

Neto’s sells a number of Portuguese wines in the market, but on the restaurant side you’re limited to less-than-good red and white wine by the glass. Why not bring some Portuguese wines over to the bar? Raising a glass of Vinho Verde or Douro would be a great way to toast this outpost of Portuguese cooking-cum-entertainment hall.

Neto’s Market & Grill
Address: 1313 Franklin St., Santa Clara.
Phone: 408.296.0818.
Hours: 9am–9pm Mon–Thu, 9am–11pm Fri and 8am–10pm Sat.
Price Range: Entrees $9.99–$16.99.
Cuisine: Portuguese and Italian.
Web: netosmarketandgrill.com.



by Stett Holbrook on Jan 15, 2010
 Email  Print Share