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The quality of its hummus can make or break a Middle Eastern or Mediterranean restaurant; like the burrito is to a taqueria, it's sort of a barometer dish. But rarely does any place have big enough garbanzos to put the dish in its name. Oren's Hummus Shop in Palo Alto, however, does. The name is a little tricky, since some might assume this is simply a brick-and-mortar backing for a line of hummus products
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